Island Peak is 6187m high and one of the most popular and busy trekking peak in Nepal, also known as Imja Tse, lies in the Khumbu Himalayan range. Island Peak climbing gives the best satisfaction every amateur and serious climber can dream of.
If you are seeking the thrill of adventure and wish to widen your experience towards the peak climbing expedition beyond simply trekking in Nepal, this is the mountain for you.
We head for Island Peak climbing after the essential climbing practice course which is briefed and instructed by our Climbing Sherpa on various aspects of climbing techniques. Your historical effort to summit the peak will be rewarded with probably one of the best panoramic views in the world as you feel Lhotse, Nuptse, Baruntse, Ama Dablam and Makalu are almost touching the tip of your nose.
Descending with a sense of achievement, our route takes us into many cultural sites, such as Pangboche, a traditional Sherpa village; Tangboche, famous for its ornately decorated Tibetan monasteries and Khumjung with Hillary school inside the clouds and mysterious Yeti scalp.
If you are looking for a longer trip to Island Peak then you can join our 20-day Everest Base Camp trek with Island peak climbing or 21-day EBC via Gokyo Lakes, Chola Pass and Island peak.
How hard is to climb Island Peak?
Island Peak Climbing is a very demanding challenge, but if you’re physically in good shape, we will get you to the peak. If you’ve already been trekking to altitude, this is a perfect next challenge.
The first section of the climb is physically very challenging because at more than 5000 m you are trekking up rough terrain. However this section is definitely non-technical. When you enter the glacier area and you’ll have to wear crampons and rope-up.
There is a risk of falling into snow-capped crevasses during this section these ladders are going to be strapped to get across. This can be daunting but at all times you’re going to be on safety lines. You finally reach the headwall’s foot. Then you finally reach the headwall foot.
This is the difficult part of the climb as the ascent is very steep and the air is very thin. Fixed lines make the climbing route safe but getting to the summit ridge will take a lot of determination. A short, relatively easy ascent from the summit ridge to the top.
The expedition is suitable for trekkers with some high-altitude trekking experience and using fixed ropes and crampons. This is not necessary as there is going to be learning.
When is the best time to climb Island Peak?
The Island Peak can be attempted during the year except monsoon months (mid-June to end of August). Even during the winter, people have successfully climbed Island peak, but cold weather may be unfavorable for some, especially if you are a novice mountaineer. It’s not that the mountain is technically hard to climb, but it more depends on how comfortable you are with the extreme winter months.
Although the peak can be climbed almost year-round, the easiest and most suitable time to climb the Island peak during spring (March to early June) and autumn (September to November) are.
Both seasons (autumn/spring), the weather appears to be clearer and it is by far the most popular time to climb the peaks and high passes. This is also the best time to visit Nepal in general, and this time in Nepal is when most travelers/trekkers want to go trekking and mountaineering in Nepal.
After monsoon season can often get crowded, but you will be pretty sure on the flip side that you will have the best weather conditions and climbing conditions.
Island peak climbing permit cost: Seasons
The cost of the Island peak climbing permit varies depending on the season. You’ll have to pay additional fees for the permit during peak season. But in off-seasons, it is cheap.
You have to pay about US $250 for the permit during the spring season (March-May).
During the autumn season (September-November), you will pay about US $125 for the permit to climb.
While in the monsoon (June to August) and in winter (December to February) i.e. off-season, you can get the permit in cheaper price i.e. t US $70 per individual.
The local area permit cost is US $20 for all seasons.
I have never climbed peak before. Can I go for peak climbing in Nepal?
There’s always a first time for everything, including peak climbing. This is a non-technical peak which a fit trekker can climb safely, and even somewhat technical peaks can be attempted by a beginner climber with a professional native Sherpa climbing guide.
Island Peak Climbing gear lists:
Your personal Gear:
- Ice axe
- Tape slings
- Screwgate Carabiners
- Descender/Abseiling device
- Plastic Mountaineering boots
- Helmet (optional)
Gears for the Group
- Snow bar
- Ice hammer
- Ice screw
We at Himalaya Discovery glad to guide you Island peak expedition with our native experienced Sherpa guides and expert team for a complete Himalaya experience.
Upon your arrival in the Kathmandu airport after completing your custom formalities Visa, etc. pick up your luggage and look for our airport representative from Himalaya Discovery Adventures, who will display your name on the board at the arrival gate. You will be greeted by our representative and transferred to your hotel by private tourist vehicle. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Today is free for sightseeing in Kathmandu. You may wish to visit Durbar Square in the heart of the old city where the old Royal Palace, with its intricate woodcarving is located. The whole area is a maze of temples and images. Leading away from the square in all directions are narrow alleys, full of the most amazing variety of shops and stalls. Some of these landmarks are considered World Heritage Sites including the historic Bhaktapur Durbar Square, the famous ‘Monkey Temple’ Swayambhunath and Buddhists shrine Buddhanath which is one of the largest Stupas in the world.
There will also be a full trip briefing today with gear check. In case you need to hire or buy equipment locally there will be time to do this today. Overnight in Kathmandu.
An early morning start takes us to Tribhuwan international Airport in Kathmandu for the 35 mins scenic flight to Tenzing and Hillary Airport at Lukla at 2804meters. On arrival at the airport guide will brief you and introduce our porters before we begin our trek towards Phakding.
After landing we have time to discover the village while our staff sort and load our trekking equipment. Then we begin our trek by descending towards the Dudh Kosi River where we join the main trail to Namche Bazaar, located just above Chaunrikharka (2713meters). The walking is easy and after passing through the small village of Ghat (2550meters) it is a short walk to Phakding, It is important to take these first few days slowly to enable your body to acclimatise and to enjoy the passing scenery and culture. Overnight at guesthouse.
We continue trekking along the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing this majestic river many times on exciting suspension bridges laden with prayer flags. After entering Sagamartha National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking views. Namche Bazaar is known as the Gateway to Everest which is home to many quality restaurants, hotels, lodges, shops, Money exchange, internet cafe and a bakery. Namche is one of the biggest villages along the whole Everest trail. Overnight at guesthouse.
We will spend a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. As well as a short trek where a museum is celebrating the traditional customs of the Sherpa people. Today we hike up the Syangboche Airport around Everest View Hotel. From this point, we can see rewarding views of the Himalayas with a stunning sunrise and sunset over the panorama of Khumbu peaks. Overnight at guesthouse.
We trek to an altitude of 3860 meters today. On reaching Tengboche your guide will tell you about the local monastery situated here. The group will be taken to observe a prayer ceremony either in the evening or morning depending on how the days trekking went. Overnight at guesthouse.
From Thyangboche the trail drops to Debuche, crosses another exciting suspension bridge on the Imja Khola, and climbs to Pangboche amongst thousands of mani stones. Our uphill trek continues, taking us to the quaint traditional Sherpa village of Dingboche with its exquisite views of Lhotse, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam. We take our time so we avoid getting affected by the altitude. Overnight at guesthouse.
From here we have a short walking day as it is very important to avoid getting affected by the thinning of the air and get acclimatization to climb Island peak. Our guide will give important and useful information about the situation on climbing Island peak and about next day’s activities. Overnight at guesthouse.
Today is only 4 hours walking as we are becoming acclimatized to the thinning of air, from today the accommodation will be the tented camp for next two days and you will be having camp food cooked by our professional cook. Overnight at Tented camp.
We will spend a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. As well as a short trek around base camp to prepare us for the 6000-meter adventure the next morning. Overnight at Tented camp.
Today is our main adventure day, we start early in the morning to climb Island peak but it all depends on the weather. After camp 1, we go up in the gully, traverse to the right, up on a wide stone field, cross the ridge to the glacier and crevasses. After a safe trip to the top, we safely make our way down then same day back to Chukung. Overnight at guesthouse.
Following the same route back down to Tengboche via Dingboche, Pangboche and Diboche. Overnight at guesthouse.
Leaving the mountains behind us our descent takes us from Tengboche Monastery (3860 meters) to the town of Namche Bazaar (3441meters). We arrive back into Namche Bazaar in the afternoon. You will enjoy your evening talking with fellow trekkers and with a nice meal. Overnight at guesthouse.
Finally, we return to Lukla where the trek began, which seems a lifetime ago. Enjoying time to reflect on the trek as a group and the personal achievement of all those who took part. Overnight at guesthouse.
Enjoying your last glimpse of the mountains you have recently visited for one last time on the 35 mins Scenic flight back to Kathmandu. You can rest and relax throughout the day. In the evening, we will have a farewell dinner in a traditional Nepalese restaurant with cultural performances. Overnight in Kathmandu.
It’s also spare day in case of bad weather in Lukla. If you get interested in taking some gifts from Nepal for friends and relatives, visiting some nearby shops or go out in Thamel for typical Nepalese goods. In the evening, we will have a farewell dinner in a traditional Nepalese restaurant with cultural performances. Overnight in Kathmandu.
The trip concludes! Our airport representative will drop you to the airport for your flight departure from