Ama Dablam has one of the most beautiful and recognizable shapes in the world. It is not as high as Mount Everest, but it inspires respect and is immensely popular with mountaineers and visitors. Sherpa and Tibetans who live nearby are also fascinated by its beauty, and it was they who gave it its name, which translates as “Mother’s jewel.” It’s because a glacier on the southwest side resembles “Dablam,” a sacred necklace worn by Sherpa women. The summit represents the entire Khumbu region and stands in the heart of the Khumbu valley.
Although the mountain is by nearly one-fourth lower than Everest, the climbers who succeeded in summiting it are extremely proud of their achievement. Climbing Ama Dablam requires quite a bit of effort and technical expertise, which is why mountaineers should have prior climbing experience. The ascent is tough, taking you through steep ice and rock on the South-West Ridge. No matter how beautiful it is, it requires strength and endurance.
Our Ama Dablam expedition is carefully prepared to ensure that our clients have everything they need. They are continually supported by our expert crew as well as Sherpas who provide food and supplies. Such expeditions last 26 days and some of them are used for acclimatization. Everything is carefully planned out to make an ascent as effortless as possible on condition that the weather will not spoil the trip.
If you’re planning to climb Ama Dablam in the spring, there are some open group schedule in April or May; however, we also organize expeditions from October to November when the weather is really pleasant and beautiful the air is clear, allowing climbers to admire not only the peaks but also the colorful forests and picturesque valleys. Another benefit for autumn climbing is that there are less visitors on hikes and the weather is more stable.
What Permits Are Required For Ama Dablam Expedition?
To embark on the Ama Dablam Expedition, you must secure a climbing permit due to the mountain’s elevation exceeding 6000 meters. Obtain this special permit from the Tourism Board and Nepal Mountaineering Association. Note that obtaining licenses requires assistance from your guide, so be sure to bring your companion. At Peak Climbing Nepal, our experienced guides can facilitate the process of obtaining a climbing permit for your expedition.
You’ll also be requiring the permits of EBC Trek, including Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit. Since Ama Dablam lies within the restricted zone of Ama Dablam, climbers must acquire this permit beforehand.
Acquiring Sagarmatha National Park Permit costs you around NPR. 3000 per person for the international climbers and climbers from SAARC Nation must pay NPR. 1000 per person, respectively.
Best Time For Ama Dablam Expedition
Explore our Ama Dablam Expedition —an exclusive package available year-round. While feasible at any time, certain seasons are optimal for mountaineering. Considering factors such as weather conditions and precipitation (wind, rain, snow), the recommended months include Autumn and Spring.
Spring comes with mild temperatures and delightful weather. The season blankets the surroundings in lush greenery, offering captivating views and a stunning array of blooming flowers.
Upon your return, the landscape transforms into a vibrant tapestry of wildflowers and verdant foliage. Don’t miss the awe-inspiring vistas of renowned peaks like Mount Everest, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and others.
Nepal experiences its delightful Autumn season from mid-September to late November, characterized by clear skies, minimal clouds, and moderate temperatures. This period creates a pleasant atmosphere throughout the country, offering advantageous conditions for various activities.
Embarking on an Ama Dablam expedition during this Autumn season provides an opportunity to enjoy unobstructed views of the mountains and surrounding landscapes. The journey back offers a spectacular view of the Khumbu region, showcasing lush green fields, nearby villages, majestic mountains, and terraced landscapes.
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On the first day of the Ama Dablam Expedition, you will arrive in Kathmandu. Upon arrival for your Ama Dablam Expedition, our staff will meet you at Tribhuvan International Airport. You’ll then proceed to your pre-booked hotel for an overnight stay.
The day after exploring Kathmandu, you’ll attend a Meet and Greet program hosted by Peak Climbing Nepal. Here, you’ll be introduced to our guides and expedition crew. Following this, a welcome dinner provided by our company will take place before you return to your hotel.
You will be checking through your climbing gears, logistics, and all other essentials that are required for the Ama Dablam Expedition.
On the third day, we will gather all our preparations and make our way to Tribhuvan International Airport for a short flight to Lukla, which typically lasts 30 to 35 minutes.
Upon arrival at Lukla Airport, we will embark on a 3-hour hike to Phakding at an elevation of 2,610 meters. Along the way, we must traverse Sherpa settlements like Nurning and Chheplung, navigating a remote and rugged trail that offers adventurous views of the Himalayas to the north.
We will embark on a 5 to 6-hour hike from Phakding to reach Namche Bazaar, a contemporary Sherpa town nestled at an elevation of 3,440 meters. The trail presents occasional challenging terrains, emphasizing the need for sturdy hiking boots. Upon arrival in Namche, we can relish breathtaking views of the Himalayan range, featuring iconic peaks such as Mount Everest, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and more.
Namche Bazaar not only serves as a vital point in your trek but also provides an unparalleled vantage point for soaking in the awe-inspiring beauty of the surrounding mountains. Capture the majesty of the Himalayas as you stand in this modern Sherpa town, creating lasting memories of your journey through the breathtaking landscapes.
On the fifth day of your trek, take a break at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization. As you may already feel tired from hiking and adjusting to higher altitudes, this day is crucial for helping your body adapt to the elevation. Prioritize proper meals, stay hydrated, and consume energy-rich food. Additionally, explore the nearby areas in Namche Bazaar.
Today, we will leave Namche Bazaar and set off for a long journey towards Tengboche. Starting our day with a warm breakfast in the guest house, we will continue to trek towards Khyangjuma through the rugged trails.
After reaching Khyangjuma, we will catch the uphill trail that diverts towards the right side where Phunke Thenga lies. As we hike through the Buddhist settlement filled with the Prayer Flags and Chortens, we will reach Tengboche Village.
One of the major attractions of this place is Tengboche Monastery, which offers high-level insights about Ancient Tibetan Buddhism.
From Tengboche, it’s just a few periods of walking to reach Debuche. Climbers can have the views of mystic mountain peaks, including Mt. Everest and Ama Dablam.
On day 8th, our major motive is to reach Pangboche from Tengboche. We will start our hike from Tengboche village and head towards the Buddhist settlement of Deboche.
From there, we will catch a trail alongside Cholungche Khola and then finally reach Pangboche within a few hours.
This is the day when we reach the foothills of the mighty Ama Dablam Peak. From Pangboche, there is a trail that goes from the right side towards the Ama Dablam Base Camp.
We will follow the trail through the Cholungche Khola which passes through the treacherous landscapes featuring moraines and rugged terrains. A few hours of trek, we will reach Ama Dablam Base Camp, where we will set up a tent for overnight stay.
The ascent of Ama Dablam via the South West Ridge follows a flexible approach, with day-to-day decisions guided by the expedition leader and team members’ experience. Base camp activities, including organizing supplies and acclimatization, precede a stop at camp 1 (5,700 meters). After returning to base camp for rest, the summit push begins.
Starting from base camp at 4,600 meters, the ascent progresses through old grassy moraine ridges to a 5,150-meter saddle. Northward from there, a boulder field allows for the establishment of an Advanced Base Camp at 5,400 meters. Beyond, the route skirts the base of the boulder field, leading to the SW ridge. Camp 1 is set just below Pt. 5,705 meters, and the route continues with scrambling and a short gully ascent.
Moving from Camp 1, the team negotiates mixed ground to reach the ridge proper, facing challenges on the narrow east side. Camp 2 at 5,900 meters is attained after pitches, including the challenging 15-meter Yellow Tower. Some expeditions opt for a direct push from Camp 1 to Camp 3, bypassing Camp 2.
From Camp 2, the route involves skirting a red rock bluff, ascending a snow ridge, traversing eastward to a gully, and negotiating steep snow sections on the west side of the Mushroom Ridge. Camp 3 at 6,300 meters is reached after ascending a snow and ice slope. The climb then proceeds along the right side of Ama Dablam, crossing the Bergschrund and ascending the ice crest to reach the summit.
After successfully climbing Ama Dablam peak, we have to return back now. So, the first step is to return to Pangboche. Reaching Pangboche required technical descent from the top of Ama Dablam.
First, we will reach the base camp of the mighty peak and then make our way towards the Buddhist village, Pangboche. We will retrace the same route alongside the Cholungche Khola to reach today’s destination.
Today’s trek is going to be one of the longest as we have to retrace the trail from the Pangboche to Namche Bazaar in a single day. The total duration of the trek is around 6 – 7 hours.
We will retrace our way back from Pangboche and follow the same trail traversing through Tengboche, Phunke Tenga, and Namche Bazaar. Upon arriving at Namche Bazaar, we will stay overnight at a guest house.
From Namche Bazaar, we will start our trek early in the morning and head towards Phakding traversing the Sherpa settlements of Larja Doban, Monjo, Phakding, Nurning, and Chheplung.
From Chheplung, it only takes a few hours to reach Lukla, also known as the Tenzing Norgay Airport. Tonight, we will stay at a guest house in Lukla.
On day 29th, we will onboard a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. It takes around 35 minutes to reach Kathmandu. From Tribhuvan International Airport, our officials will guide you to your hotel.
Today, we will have a full day recess to enjoy a day of exploration in Kathmandu City with our guide. Also, we will visit key attractions such as Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Narayanhiti Durbar, Swayambhunath, and Kathmandu Durbar Square.
After successfully climbing Ama Dablam Peak in the Everest Region, our team will organize a farewell dinner for the whole crew. We will participate in the interaction program and head towards our respective hotel after that. Overnight stay at the hotel.
Today, you will bid farewell to the Himalaya Discovery Team and return to your home country. Enjoy your final moments in Kathmandu with a city stroll or souvenir shopping.
